Court Questions Answered: Tennis & Pickleball F.A.Q.

The ideal footprint for a single court is 60′ x 120′. The USTA minimum is 56′ x 114′, and stadium courts should be 66′ x 132′ so there is room for judges and benches. In multi-court complexes, laying out each court at 60′ x 120′ leaves 24′ between courts; the preferred minimum gap is 18′ and the absolute minimum is 12′. USTA rules and American Sports Builders Association (ASBA) standards prohibit obstructions within 12′ of the doubles lines, which influences divider fencing and light pole placement whenever courts are narrower than 60′.

Hard courts should fall in one plane only — side-to-side, end-to-end or corner-to-corner — at a minimum of 1″ in 10′ (0.833%) and a maximum of 1%. Clay courts should fall in a single plane between 1″ in 30′ and 1″ in 40′.

Hard courts rest on either concrete or asphalt. Asphalt is cheaper initially but breaks down quickly, showing structural cracks, settling or displacement within three to five years and needing major restoration around year ten. Concrete courts should be post-tensioned: steel cables inside plastic sheathing are laid in a grid through the slab, partially stressed at 24 hours and fully stressed once the concrete reaches at least 2,700 psi (usually five to seven days, depending on temperature). At least one full court is poured monolithically at a time, which removes joints and saw cuts. Cable compression keeps any random cracking hairline, so playability and longevity are unaffected and displacement is prevented — the most structurally sound method available. Clay courts are built over properly compacted road base or non-expansive native soils, with an underground watering system for economical, consistent, low-maintenance play.

Acrylic color coatings are the standard hard-court finish, applied as a primer followed by sand-filled color coats for an even, textured surface. Cushioned systems are also available for hard substrates — either acrylic/rubber layers or polyurethane/rubber with acrylic coatings — in varying depths to match individual player preferences. General Acrylics' Gameco surfacing systems come in a range of colors and cushion types. Sand-filled turf can go over concrete, asphalt or a properly prepared gravel base, and works well as a rehabilitative surface over badly cracked substrates while offering varying degrees of cushioning. Clay surfaces pair aggregate bases with green or red clay playing layers, producing a softer, slower game that is easy on the body.

Standard resurfacing includes crack filling, repairs and re-coating of the acrylic surface. Birdbath leveling can be added depending on budget and how severe the problem is. Structural cracks will reopen even after filling, because of thermal expansion and contraction. Armor Crack repair is an optional add-on for localized crack resistance. Sand-filled turf systems and the Nova Pro-Bounce system can be installed over cracked substrates so cracks don't interfere with play — they float above the court surface, letting cracks keep moving without reflecting through.

Tennis court lighting should keep glare low and spillage minimal — light that escapes beyond the facility and can disturb neighboring properties. LSI lighting products, which cover indoor and outdoor tennis courts and other specialty sports applications, lead the industry; their sharp-cutoff outdoor fixtures cut glare, spillage and sky glow, and are generally metal halide systems offering high performance and energy efficiency. Beyond the products, LSI provides strong support with lighting design, program and field assistance. Since most local authorities enforce spill light restrictions, these points should be settled at the start of the design process.

The ideal size for a single court is 36′ x 64′, with a playing area of 20′ x 44′. Since the space needed is modest, multi-court facilities are typically built in batteries of two or more; a battery of two generally measures 72′ wide by 64′ long. The preferred minimum gap between courts is 8′ (absolute minimum 5′), and the preferred minimum back court is 10′ (absolute minimum 6′).

Yes. The court only needs pickleball striping, and the net must be lowered while pickleball is played. As an alternative, two pickleball courts can fit on one tennis court by striping a pickleball court on each half and using portable net systems for each.

Yes — a single tennis court can become as many as four pickleball courts. The work involves installing special pickleball net posts and nets, plus resurfacing and striping for the pickleball layout. Please call to discuss these options.

Courts should fall in one plane — side-to-side, end-to-end or corner-to-corner — at a minimum of 1″ in 10′ (0.833%) and a maximum of 1%.

Pickleball courts rest on concrete or asphalt. Asphalt is cheaper up front but breaks down quickly, showing structural cracks, settling or displacement within three to five years and needing major restoration by year ten. Concrete courts should be post-tensioned: steel cables inside plastic sheathing are laid in a grid through the slab, partially stressed at 24 hours and fully stressed once the concrete reaches at least 2,700 psi (usually five to seven days, depending on temperature). At least one full court is poured monolithically at a time, which removes joints and saw cuts. Cable compression keeps any random cracking hairline, so playability and longevity are unaffected and displacement is prevented — the most structurally sound method available.